Sunday, June 04, 2006

Getting Beyond Chardonnay

Here's my latest article from the Alameda Sun:

Getting Beyond Chardonnay

I find that the more wine I drink, the more I appreciate white wines. For me, white wines have more variety in style, balance and flavor than reds, and they’re certainly more refreshing when it’s hot out.

This month, we’ll discuss a few lesser known white wine grapes, so you can branch out beyond Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. You can find wines from all of these grapes at local shops and restaurants.

White wines are always served chilled, and in the summertime can be quite refreshing. Don’t chill your whites too much though — you’ll miss out on most of the flavor. A good rule of thumb is to take the bottle out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving.

Torrontés has become the most popular white wine of Argentina, and it’s easy to see why. Long thought to be a clone of Spanish Malvasia, recent DNA testing has shown that Torrontes is a hybrid of the Muscat and Mission grapes. Floral and aromatic, without being at all sweet, Torrontes wines have peach, rose and jasmine notes, and a pleasant freshness followed by a clean, long finish. Good acid balanced by great fruit make this a perfect wine for sipping on the patio or accompanying fruits, cheeses or lighter fare.
Think Viognier meets Sauvignon Blanc. Many examples can be found in the $10 to $18 range.

Gruner Veltliner (GROON-er Vel-TLEAN-er), or Gru-Vee, is the most popular white wine in Austria, and once you try it you’ll understand why. It’s easy to drink, with a fresh, clean, light, citrus flavor, and bracing acidity, replete with floral and mineral hints. Not overpowering and simple enough to enjoy without heavy contemplation, this is a fun and friendly wine. The thing I love the most about Gru-Vee is its flexibility: Farmed at high yields, it makes a pleasant but light sipping white, but if growers take a little more care, it can produce complex, full flavored, spicy wines with a distinctive white flower and cracked-pepper edge. Think Pinot Grigio meets Sauvignon Blanc. Examples can be found from $10 up.

Picpoul (PEEK-pool) is a popular grape in the Languedoc region of Southern France, and is best represented by Picpoul de Pinet. Picpoul produces crisp, citrus-y wines with good acid, and with apple, mineral and nutty overtones — a perfect accompaniment to seafood or fruits. Good examples are available for $10 or less.

Albariño (Al-bah-REEN-yo). Albariño is the primary wine in Rias Baixes (Northwestern Spain). Considered by many to be Spain’s premier white wine, Albariño is also known in Portugal as Alvarinho. Typically, wines made from Albariño are very aromatic, and have almond, apple, peach, citrus, flowers or grass notes. Albariño’s good acid-fruit balance screams for seafood. Great examples can be found for $14 and up.

Fiano di Avellino (fee-AHN-oh) from Campania, is one of Southern Italy’s most famous white wines, and is grown on the volcanic hillsides of Avellino, east of Naples. Well-made Fianos are bursting with ripe pear, honey and hazelnut aromas. Like many of the wines on this list, Fiano has a good fruit-acid balance, and is a terrific foil for triple crème cheeses, salume and sausages. It can be found for $20 and up.


And don’t forget Riesling (REESE-ling), perhaps the most seductive and complex of all white wine grapes.

Rieslings can be vinted dry, off-dry, or sweet, from still to sparkling, from crisp and light to full bodied and full-flavored. Depending on where it was grown and how it was made, Rieslings can have flavors ranging from peach to slate to apple to lemon to petrol (really!).


My favorites are from Germany, where good minerality and acid give structure (and age-ability) to the wines, but great wines can be found in Austria, Australia and Alsace as well. I had a 1979 Auslese Riesling this past Christmas that was surprisingly fresh, fruity and complex. Perfect with spicy foods (Asian, Latin or Caribbean), or on its own, great Rieslings can be found from $15 on up (and up and up).


So, take a break from Chardonnay this summer. Try a white that’s a bit off the beaten path. You won’t be sorry.
Posted by Farmstead :: 6:39 AM :: 0 comments

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